Armenian Independence Day - September 21

This is the 21st anniversary of Armenia's independence from the Soviet Union. The day is definitely a school holiday, but most stores are open even though government offices are not. I talked with the women at Luxury Beauty Salon on Tumanyan Street, where I got a manicure this afternoon. I asked them if it was usual to work on a holiday. One said, "We work every day in Armenia." The manicurist added quickly--"Not on Thursdays."

Making flatbread in the floor oven

The bakers at the Georgian bakery across the street from our apartment were certainly not taking the day off.. They were busy producing the large (think medium pzza size) Georgia flatbread. I felt it was almost a patriotic gesture for me to buy some--like I need an excuse. The big loaf was 50 cents and made a great base for tomato and melted cheese open face sandwiches.

On my afternoon wander downtown I saw many small groups of young teens having a good time on their own. Girls with girls., boys with boys. Three or four groups of girls were busy wrapping themselves in the blue-red-and-orange national flag and taking each other's pictures. Sort of patriotic glamor shots. The boys were mostly horsing around, some carrying flags.

Northern Avenue--a pedestrian mall--was filled with caricature artists, face painters, and guys selling bubble-blowing devices. Rather than small children being the customers for face-painting, it was mostly young teens--boys and girls. A set of plump red lips puckered up like a kiss seemed to be popular among the boys. A children's store was totally getting into the holiday by giving a 21% discount today only. It felt like a Sunday afternoon but I suspect the crowds will gather as darkness falls.

Republic Square is where the action is tonight. A huge stage was erected in front of the fountains near the National Art Museum. Based on what I saw of last year's celebration on TV last night, the party will go on for hours. There will be national dance troupes performing, lots of music, a light and fountain show, and endless fireworks. I will be in my jammies at home,  switching channels trying to find live coverage (the National TV van was on the Square) and listening for the fireworks.